Like with iPhoto 9 and earlier, one of the easiest ways to remove unwanted Metadata from your JEPG’s was to use the mail feature within iPhoto. The trick was to make sure that “actual size” was selected and simply drag the picture to the desktop after Mail prepared it. You could then close the Mail window leaving the picture you want (minus the metadata) on your desktop. See my “How to remove JPEG metadata in apple osx” post for more. However, with iPhoto 11 by default the pictures you select to mail are now mailed from iPhoto 11 itself and not Mail. To fix this so the above trick still works, you’ll need to go into iPhoto 11’s preferences and under General, change the email photos option to Mail. From here you’ll select the pictures you’d like to have the metadata removed from and click the Share icon to open mail. Now you’re all set to drag and drop from Mail onto the desktop or wherever with pictures clear of metadata. Just make sure “actual size” is selected in Mail or you may be resizing your pictures unintentionally.
Using Aperture to enter GPS coordinates can be done in the location window at the bottom of the Metadata tab. To do this open the Metadata tab and make sure GPS is selected from the drop down. At the bottom you will see where you can enter location information. Sadly Google Maps will not auto populate the altitude data, only latitude and longitude. I hope this will change in the future with an update. Outside of not being able to add altitude, you’re also not able to export the image with the newly added GPS data like you are with iPhoto 9. I find it a bit odd that you can do something in iPhoto 9 that you are unable to do with Aperture 3. Again, hopefully this too will change with an update.
Here’s a quick tip for removing metadata in Photoshop. When you get your image ready for export click on File in the top menu and select Save for Web & Devices…. From here a new dialog box will open giving you options on the type of file you’d like to export, quality settings, color profile and yes, a metadata removal option. After you get the setting you like, Click save and your done.
If you’re using Aperture 3 and would like to remove metadata from your images you’ll need to change your Export settings. To do this, use the export tab in the preference window. Under Aperture in the top menu bar select preferences. Then click on the Export tab. Where it lists “Email Photo Export presets” you will find a drop down menu. At the bottom of that menu you’ll select “edit”. From here a new dialog box will open with your Image Export settings. Choose the type of file format and settings you wish to Export with but make sure the “Include Metadata” box is un-cheched. Now when you right click over an image or group of images you’ve selected for Export, you can get a copy of the file minus the detailed metadata.
This is a work around for importing GPS and waypoint data so you can geo-tag your photos.
Many cameras still do not have standard, a GPS feature that allows you to record the latitude and longitude coordinates along side the rest of the metadata in-camera. However, you can use software like Places in iPhoto ’09 to input this information in a nice, clean, some what straight forward interface. For example, in iPhoto 09 when you hover the mouse over any picture or event you may notice a small “i” in the lower right corner of the image. This is where you can enter title, description and location information. Location or geotagging can be done by entering either a name of a place, address or GPS coordinates of where the picture was taken. iPhoto will then search for possible matches and give you a selection to choose from. After a location is picked or GPS coordinates are entered, you can export your picture and have the GPS data added to the image file so the picture can be moved to other devices or programs. GPS data will still be added to the metadata even if you only enter the name of the place (provided iPhoto recognizes it). iPhoto will automatically enter the GPS coordinates for you.
Exporting your pictures.
You do this by selecting File…….Export, use JPEG or TIFF and make sure the “Include location” box is checked. Once you’ve exported the picture, open the picture with OSX Preview and select Tools…….Show Inspector, and you’ll find a new meta box that has your GPS metadata in it. This can also be done to multiple pictures at the same time by selecting a group or an event and clicking the “i” in the lower right hand corner. However doing this iPhoto will assume all pictures in said group or event are from the same location.
If you have attempted to take pictures of the moon in the past with little luck, here are a few tips that will help you improve your results.
First is to use a tripod. I don’t really care what kind so long as it keeps the camera secure and steady. I’ve said it many times before but a good tripod is your best friend in the world of photography. This will eliminate any image blur that may be introduced into the picture by movement on your part. Even if you’re able to use a relatively fast shutter, the Moon in general is very unforgiving when it comes to camera movement. Also get into the habit of turning OFF Image Stabilization when you have your camera mounted to a tripod. Ironically if your camera is perfectly still the Image Stabilization or vibration reduction can actually introduce blur ( although on some advanced lenses this is a non issue ). Second, you will need a good zoom lens. However, you may be surprised to know that a super zoom lens is not always needed to capture a good looking Moon image. The Moon picture I took on this page was done with a 28-135mm lens zoomed at the 135mm focal length or 216mm ( kinda ) when you account for the crop factor.*
Now that we have the camera mounted, the IS turned off and we’re zoomed in, we need to start adjusting the camera settings and fine tuning the focus. Manual focus should be used. If your camera has live view, this is a good time to use it. Live view is a great way to focus in and make sure you have it just right. Live View helps you do this by allowing you to digitally zoom in on the fly to facilitate fine tune focus adjustments. It’s not a game changer if your camera doesn’t have this feature, it’s just useful. As for the shutter, believe it or not you will need to speed it up some. 1/100 – 1/300 is a good range to start with. Given that the Moon is so far away don’t worry too much about the depth of field and use the lowest aperture settings your lens allows. At this distance our primary concern for the aperture is to simply let in as much light as possible. A good picture of the moon doesn’t require a fast aperture Telephoto lens like a F2.8-4, just use the lowest available and adjust the shutter and or ISO a little to compensate. The aperture used in the image above was F5.6. Because the Moon is a bit brighter than we sometimes give it credit for, the ISO will need to be set to it’s lower settings, around 100-200. This will take some trial and error so experiment. To sum it up: Zoom in, Keep your ISO low, your aperture low, your shutter high and your camera still. Have fun.
*On a side note, It’s important to know what type of image sensor your camera uses. In my case I was using a Canon 40D that uses a cropped frame sensor with about a 1.6x crop factor compared to a full frame sensor like the one in the Canon 5D. To determine your cameras crop factor, compare it’s sensor size listed in your camera specification sheet to 36mm x 24mm (full frame). My camera has a sensor size of 22.2 x 14.8mm so it’s crop factor is about 1.6x. To make a long story short, If you’re using a cropped frame camera body multiply your lens focal length by the respected crop factor of the camera you’re using it on to find out what the focal length will be compered to a 35mm film equivalent Full Frame using the same lens. It’s important to note that you’re not gaining telephoto, per say, the sensor is pre cropping the image circle the EF lens in this case is providing.
Update 5/2012: As I look back at some of my older posts I can’t help but shake my head at them, even more so with this one. Not because removing Metadata isn’t important but because most everything I do now is done in Lightroom 4 and with LR4, Metadata removal is just an option at file export. I dare say easier then Aperture 3 (blasphemy!). Now if you don’t use Aperture 3, LR4 or other programs similar in nature, read on. On second thought, If you you are using such a program, you’re likely not reading this anyway.
You may not realize this but hidden information is embedded in your pictures that you may or may not want public. This information is known as Metadata. The information includes more than just the size and time stamp of your images. Metadata includes things like the camera settings, type of camera, type of lens as well as the operating system and software used. With programs like Adobe Bridge you can even add to the existing metadata ( location, notes, etc. ) Some cameras include GPS data as well. Now for most of us the information being embedded in the image file doesn’t really mean much or even matter. However for the rest of us having full metadata in your image file is like a chef giving out his recipe with every meal. The problem is that metadata cannot be simply deleted. Although Adobe Bridge for Photoshop can let you add to it, it will not delete the metadata. On the other hand, there are a few very simple tricks that I use to remove this info.
In Mac OSX you can view metadata by opening an image in Preview. Under “Tools” select “Show Inspector”.
First is the Apple Mail program….
This trick seems to only works from iPhoto. You will not get the same results if you drag the images strait to Mail. You start by selecting the pictures in iPhoto and click the mail icon in the lower right corner. Make sure “Actual Size” is selected in the drop down menu. iPhoto will then prepare the pictures for Mail. Once the pictures are in the Mail new message window, simply drag the images back to the desktop or wherever is convenient, close mail (no need to save), and you’re done. You will find the metadata to be removed while retaining the resolution and color profile data.
Update For Aperture 3/21/10
Aperture 3 metadata removal is outlined here
Next is the “Save As Save As” trick…
This one is straight forward. Open an image in Preview, save it as a PNG, then save it back to a JPEG or vice versa. Metadata gone.